For my first newsletter of 2026, as we look forward to what the new year may bring, I thought I would email about a recent special commission that reminds us of one of the traditions deeply entrenched in British culture: recognising and honouring an individual’s public service.
In late November, one of the Newcastle members of Parliament, our local MP, Chi Onwurah, got in touch to ask if I could help her with a headpiece for an upcoming special occasion. Following a recommendation made to her by another of my clients, Chi explained that she needed a headpiece for her investiture, having been appointed Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire (DBE) in King Charles III’s 2025 Birthday Honours. Chi was given this honour in recognition of her political and public service since becoming an MP for Newcastle in 2010.
The headpiece commission from Chi was an integral part of a stunning outfit that was being designed and made especially for her at Newcastle College, a further education college located just a stone’s throw from my central Newcastle studio.
During my initial consultation with Chi, she summarised her brief as wishing to represent her Nigerian, Irish and Geordie heritage. She also explained that at the last Newcastle College summer degree show, she had been particularly captivated by a collection presented by Lamin Gibba, now an MA student at the Newcastle College University Centre.
Inspiration for the suit and its fabric was drawn from traditional West African fabrics, coupled with the well-known colours of Newcastle United, neatly encapsulating several aspects of Chi’s heritage.
With this in mind, Chi and I discussed the vision for the headpiece, which would complete the story told by the outfit. It was to be a small version of a trilby, black, and with references to her background in the finishes and trim.
Pictured here together at Newcastle College, Chi and Lamin discuss his graphic, stunning black and white linen design, which was printed especially in The Gambia for the investiture outfit.
It was very helpful to subsequently be invited to the College to meet the Art & Design Resource Coordinator, Lynn Purvis, and Jordan James, the College’s Fashion and Textiles specialist technician, who were creating the outfit (pictured above on the right). Here we discussed the design and making process, and how the concept for the headpiece would complete the investiture look.
Together with Chi, we decided upon a vintage-style two-part perching trilby, which I blocked in a gorgeous black mesuline felt. Keen to reflect her Irish heritage too, Chi gave me a stunning pair of African beaded earrings, in the colours of the Irish Tricolour. I used some of Lamin’s linen to craft the hatband, creating a buckle-style trim for the hatband from the earrings.
On Tuesday, 13th January, Dame Chi Onwurah was awarded her damehood at Windsor Castle.
Receiving her award from the King, in recognition of her work for communities in the North East, Chi commented: “I accept the award on behalf of my constituents, who have placed their trust in me time and again. The North East is not honoured enough, despite the extraordinary work happening across our communities, and I hope this recognition helps shine a light on that.”
Pictured at Windsor Castle, Chi wears the lined vintage-style trilby headpiece, which perches to the right with the centralised motif of African beadwork in the colours of the Irish Tricolour on a black and white linen hatband. Set on a handmade headband, the headpiece is secured with couture millinery elastic.
For more information about this commission or to make an enquiry about couture headwear for your own upcoming event, please register your interest here.
Credits – please click to open
Imagery: as indicated Mark Savage Photography
Designer: Lamin Gibba, Newcastle College University Centre.
Art & Design Resource Coordinator: Lynn Purvis
Specialist technician: Jordan James
Shoot location: Newcastle College